Heat, Then Measure It
An oven either fails to make heat or fails to hold the right amount of it, and the two problems point to different parts. On gas ovens, a bake igniter that has weakened no longer draws enough current to open the gas valve, so there is no flame at all. On electric ovens, a burned-out bake or broil element leaves the cavity cold. When the oven does heat but never reaches the setpoint, the usual cause is a drifted temperature sensor or a calibration that needs resetting. We measure the actual cavity temperature against the display, which tells us immediately whether we are chasing a dead part or a sensor.
No-Heat Faults by Cause
| What You Notice | Likely Cause | What It Needs |
|---|---|---|
| No heat, no flame (gas) | Weak bake igniter | Test current draw, replace igniter |
| No heat (electric) | Burned bake or broil element | Replace element |
| Heats but runs low | Drifted temperature sensor | Verify cavity temp, replace sensor |
| No power to elements | Relay control board | Test and replace control board |
| Heating locked out | Fault code or door-lock issue | Read code, clear underlying fault |
Notes by Brand
No-heat symptoms vary across the roster. Wolf dual-fuel ovens are electric on the bake side, so a cold cavity usually points to an element, sensor, or relay board rather than gas, and codes such as those in our Wolf guide help pinpoint it. Thermador and Gaggenau ovens hold tight tolerances, so a drifted sensor shows up quickly as a low-running oven. Viking and La Cornue gas ovens most often fail at a weak bake igniter. Miele, Jenn-Air, KitchenAid, and Monogram ovens frequently lock out heating with a sensor or door-lock code. We read the code, measure the cavity, and replace only the part responsible.
Oven Not Heating?
Book a diagnosis. Diagnostic and travel fees, if applicable, are confirmed before the appointment and before repair approval.